Coming to Ecuador after living in Mexico for several years was a bit of a culinary shock. "Oh my God, I thought, how am I going to live without chilies?"  Well, there is an Ecuadorian chili, commonly known as "aji" (accent on the "i"). Even what we knew in Mex... [More]

Bear with me on this one. First, I’ll tell you about one of my favorite Cuenca restaurants. Then, I’ll tell you about a couple of low-cost eating alternatives interlarded with cautionary tales about how to avoid the “gringo gouge.” I wrap things up with with a rant against&... [More]

With more than seven years of experience under its belt, Bertuchis can justify the claim of being one of the best Italian restaurants in Cuenca. Owner and chef, Nelson, spent 15 years in the U.S. as a restaurateur and returned to Ecuador with the experience necessary to open and run an establishme... [More]

I have been intending to write about La Parrilla de Hector (formerly Mama Cuchara) for several weeks but I have a problem. Each time I go there I have so much fun I forget to ask my questions and to take notes. Finally, I have my act together ... at least as far as telling you about La Parr... [More]

First, an explanation of the name. Tiestos are the clay platters on which food is cooked and served. This is not a novel idea, of course, as cooking on clay (barro in Spanish) is an ancient tradition, practiced in many cultures. Just think about it. Would you rather eat off ear... [More]

I was surprised to find three seafood restaurants within a block of one another in Cuenca’s Chirimoya neighborhood, a short walk from the historic district. One, La Marisqueria de Pedro, is mentioned in my updated list, "Where the gringos eat and drink..." (see the CuencaHigh... [More]

As far as we know, the only restaurant in Cuenca that requires men to wear a sports coat, and women a dress, is the formal dining room at the Cuenca Tennis Club. If you feel like dressing up for dinner and you’re not a member of the club, the city offers several great fine dining options whe... [More]

Well, we have yet another nicely decorated Italian restaurant in Cuenca.  It has been open for seven months but I haven't been around to review it. Situated in the Posada del Angel Hostal, with the entrance on Estevez de Toral, it makes a welcome addition to the family of Italian restaura... [More]

I'm happy to report that Cuenca is home to yet another good international restaurant, this time with a distinctly German flavor. Located in the residential Chirimoya neighborhood just northeast of the historic district, Stein Haus (Stone House in English), is owned and operated by two bro... [More]

After an extended sojourn in Colombia, I headed back to Ecuador via the Pan-American Highway, crossing the border at Tulcan. The relief was immediate. My first impression was the lack of police with automatic weapons. Yes, in Colombia the police and military presence have broug... [More]

For those with fond memories of Benihana, the U.S.-based restaurant chain famous for its flashing knives and Japanese chefs (sometimes of dubious pedigree), Cuenca responds with its own teppan grill, Otabe, on Av. Remigio Crespo. As with all Japanese grills, the food is cooked at high tempe... [More]

One of the major complaints of newcomers to Cuenca is that they can’t find good bread or coffee. Granted, much of the offerings here are truly ghastly, at least by gringo standards, but this is understandable in a land of corn eaters and tea drinkers. On the other hand, those of us who have ... [More]

I am delighted to report two great additions to Cuenca’s expanding restaurant and night club repertoire: Bapu on Calle Larga and Zoe on Calle Borrero. For those of you familiar with Great India on Calle Juan Mera in Quito, you'll be happy to know that you can now get the same ... [More]

This is our first shot at a list of Cuenca restaurants and bars popular with foreigners. Consider it an invitation or a forewarning, depending on your tastes. When I say foreigners, this includes not only local expats but the hundreds of foreign students, teachers, volunteers and tourists in ... [More]

When I first arrived in Cuenca, I was surprised to find that the locals did not take advantage of the prime real estate along the banks of the Tomebamba River. I was thinking, of course, ‘what a great place for a restaurant!’  I have to report, though, that the local na... [More]