Looking for a warm, culinary haven in El Centro? Check out Kolo on Calle Luis Cordero

By Jim Smith

Stepping into Cuenca’s Kolo restaurant, I was immediately welcomed by Milena Lopez, the vibrant Cuban-born owner and single mother of two. Despite the busy atmosphere, Milena greeted me with a warm smile, instantly making me feel at home. Kolo has been a staple in the Cuenca dining scene for the past three and a half years, and it’s clear that the personal touch Milena brings, along with her passion for both family and food, sets the tone for this cozy, friendly spot. Milena’s story is inspiring — raising two children, including her 10-year-old son with cerebral palsy, while running the restaurant and baking all the pastries Kolo is known for.

Milena Lopez, Kolo owner, pastry chef and manager.

Kolo is one of the few restaurants in Cuenca where one can get breakfast on Mondays. They are open for breakfast and lunch every day from Monday to Sunday between the hours of 7:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Kolo’s ambience is inviting and comfortable, offering a cozy escape from the hustle and bustle of El Centro. The dining area is quaint, with a mixture of intimate indoor seating around an open space overlooking the lobby of the Hotel Vieja Mansion. The see-through glass roof lets in the outside light over the open space, creating a serene atmosphere that encourages guests to linger and savor their meals. The overall feel of Kolo is homey, yet the care taken in the décor and arrangement shows attention to detail, making it a perfect spot to unwind with a cup of coffee or a hearty meal.

Kolo is located upstairs, above the Hotel Vieja Mansíon lobby, on Calle Luis Cordero.

The menu at Kolo is a testament to Milena’s versatility in the kitchen. It offers a wide range of options, from classic American comfort food to Cuban sandwiches, as well as breakfast favorites like Eggs Benedict and Cinnamon Roll French Toast. A standout feature is the daily specials, such as the ever-popular Fish and Chips or the richly flavorful Meatloaf. The menu is well-organized and thoughtfully curated, making it easy to find something for every palate, including vegetarian options. Kolo’s freshly baked pastries, especially the cinnamon rolls, are a must-try and reflect Milena’s skill as a baker.

Kolo is known for its pastries and pies, baked daily by Milena.

For my lunch meal, I opted for the Fish and Chips, a dish that Kolo is famous for among locals and expats alike. The fish was done to perfection and was paired with their signature crispy hash browns which made a delightful midday meal. Of course, I couldn’t leave without trying one of Milena’s freshly baked cinnamon rolls, which was soft, sweet, and indulgent, with just the right amount of icing — a perfect way to end the meal.

The Kolo staff.

Kolo’s staff were attentive and professional, yet approachable. My waitress was knowledgeable about the menu and made excellent recommendations, including the cinnamon roll, which lived up to its reputation. Throughout the meal, the service was prompt and friendly, with Milena herself often checking in on guests to ensure everyone was enjoying their experience. The sense of community and teamwork among the staff was evident, creating a seamless and welcoming dining environment.

For lunchtime relaxation, Kolo offers a variety of drinks.

When the time came to settle the bill, the process was straightforward and hassle-free. The pricing at Kolo is fair, especially considering the quality of both the food and the service. As I prepared to leave, Milena personally thanked me for dining, a gesture that felt heartfelt and sincere. The combination of great food, excellent service, and a cozy atmosphere made my time at Kolo a truly enjoyable encounter.

Dining at Kolo was a memorable experience, marked by a warm welcome from Milena Lopez, a cozy and inviting atmosphere, a menu filled with delicious, well-prepared dishes, and attentive service. Milena’s dedication to her family and her restaurant shines through in every aspect of Kolo, from the freshly baked pastries to the personal attention given to each guest. Whether you’re looking for a comforting meal, a sweet treat, or simply a place to relax with a coffee, Kolo offers a little something for everyone, making it a must-visit in Cuenca.

And here are 20 reasons why you would keep coming back to this favorite spot to eat in Cuenca.
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Kolo Restaurant: 5-65 Luis Cordero, Between Honorato Vasquez and Juan Jaramillo, in the Hotel Vieja Mansíon; Tel. +593 99 297 5787; Facebook: Kolo Restaurant

Jim Smith is CEO of YCHANGE International a small business consultancy and past Chairman of the Board of Commissioners of Home Forward (the Portland Housing Authority). He currently resides in Cuenca.