Pase del Niño captures Cuenca’s heart

The day before Cuenca’s famous Pase del Niño parade my wife Belinda and I ran errands in our suburban neighborhood. We live to the south of the Tomebamba River which divides the city’s historic district to the north from the south’s more modern construction. The hot weather got to us after walking in the afternoon sun. “Honey, if I go to the parade tomorrow, I’m definitely leaving early,” I said.

The Traveling Child procession maintains one of the country’s most important religious and cultural traditions. It’s an expression of faith which symbolizes family unity. It allows new generations to connect with their roots and strengthen their cultural identity while passing it on to their children.

On Christmas Eve morning the sun shone brightly, a good sign for parade attendees. Belinda decided not to go. I walked to town on Avenida Solano to join the anticipated one hundred thousand attendees. Tired visitors took advantage of the street’s park-like median to stretch out under shade trees and relax.

Crossing the river’s bridge into El Centro I encountered angels and Santa Clauses. At Parque Calderon, the city’s main plaza, early arrivals stood on prized spots behind a chain-link barrier extended along Calle Simon Bolivar.

The parade hadn’t started at its announced time of 10:00 a.m. I walked west on Simon Bolivar to join it. Within a few blocks a group of costumed young people danced in front of motorcycle policemen and horse-mounted officers playing brass instruments. Their troupe escorted the unit exhibiting the parade’s prominent religious-themed banner.

I took closeup photos while walking in the street. Once the parade halted, I maneuvered along the sidewalk through growing crowds for a couple of blocks. Parade participants felt appreciated by the viewers and smiled back.

I crossed the street to the shade of buildings blocking out the sunlight. Soon the jammed sidewalk blocked my path. Having already spent an hour along the parade route, I headed home on empty streets.

I took a bus out of town and exited at the parade’s staging area at the foot of Simon Bolivar. On Tres de Noviembre which parallels the Tomebamba River, holiday themed floats and trucks parked in a line organized by parade marshals. Participants on horseback joined the line or grazed their decorated steeds on the river’s lineal park grass.

Witnessing the behind-the-scenes activity stirred my appreciation for these individual community-minded contributions to the parade. I enjoyed the calmness of the scene and how freshly dressed and groomed the participants appeared. Silently wishing them well, I hopped on a bus, eager to share my day at Pase del Niño with Belinda.
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Photos by Jeremiah Reardon