A tourist group gets a taste of Ecuador

In February 2020, our Philadelphia friend, Julia, and her partner led a group of seventeen on a ten-day tour of Ecuador. My wife Belinda arranged for their Cuenca visit to include an Ecuadorian cooking class at Sofy’s Global Cuisine. Julia’s husband, renowned mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar, accompanied them.

On a Tuesday afternoon Belinda and I took a taxi to join the class. “I want to make copies of our story about moving to Ecuador, honey. I’ll pass them out to the group,” I told her.

Julia Zagar, left, speaks with tour group members.

“You don’t need to do that,” she asserted. “Julia suggested we tell them about our lives here as expats and answer any questions. Bradley will, too.” He and Belinda had met when she lived in New Orleans for eight years with her first husband Steven Guth, Bradley’s first cousin. Julia is related to both Steve and Bradley; their parents’ families lived in New York City.

“But I want to. I’m proud of my writing, dear. And our experience will help them to think about retiring here,” I replied. Stopped at a red light I got out of the cab and walked over to CopiFull, a penny-a-page print shop.

I took my turn in line to request copies of “Our New Lives.” The clerk efficiently collated thirteen pages each and stapled together fifteen sets. “Muchas gracias, senor,” I said while extending a tip.

Tour group members learn Ecuadorian cuisine.

I hurried into town as the sun descended behind cloud-catching Andes Mountains. Sunlight struck masonry walls on the east side of Avenida Benigno Malo. Storefronts in varied styles of historic architecture offered merchandise and services to young and old enjoying mild weather.

Just ahead the tourists appeared. Probably Julia’s group, I surmised. Good thing Sofy put her sign out front. They turned into the restaurant. Together we quietly filed through a long hallway and at double doors entered a vast atrium.

Naomi and Sofy at work.

The hotel overhead lets rooms to tourists who use a corner staircase in the dining area which is colorfully decorated with pieces by local artists. Varnished wood tables and chairs add a homey touch. Cedar posts support the hotel’s second floor balcony.

By the cash register is hung an artistically executed blackboard listing daily specials. Next to it, Belinda engaged in animated conversation with our friends. Sofy and I greeted each other with a customary kiss on the cheek. “Such a good place for you to put the stove, Sofy,” I remarked about the huge stove positioned in the dining area.

Sofy addressed the tour group.

“Yes, just for today, Jeremiah. I’m so happy that Belinda arranged this. I hope they like my cooking,” she replied. Her five-women staff complimented the predominately female tour group.

“So good you came!” I exclaimed to Julia. “We’ve been looking forward to seeing you.” We last visited in her folk art shop in Philly’s hip section of Center City in November 2017 when we sold her several Ecuadorian textile items.

“Hello, Jeremiah!” she said as we hugged. By coincidence, their younger son is named Jeremiah. In 2008 he made the award-winning 2008 documentary film, “In a Dream,” about his parents.

Tour group members learn the evening’s menu.

Like several of the other women, Julia wore an ikat shawl. She’d just arrived from a tour of a Gualaceo weaver’s workshop with a red and black design. It complimented her short-sleeve red cotton blouse and a red beaded-bracelet on her right wrist. On this trip she’d purchase many items for her shop.

She passed me a hefty package. “Thank you so much, Julia! We’d been looking forward to getting these.” Over three months we’d exchanged emails to plan the visit. Belinda took the opportunity to ask for these cosmetic and cooking items.

Left to right, Jeremiah Reardon, Bradley Guth, Julia Zagar, Belinda Reardon and Isaiah Zagar share a joke.

Isaiah’s face was framed by white hair and a beard. He also wore a red beaded-bracelet on his left wrist. Our last visit was a decade ago, and we warmly shook hands. Belinda and I love his whimsical murals in their neighborhood. His three-dimensional “Magic Gardens” which spans three South Street lots attracts many Philadelphia tourists.

Together we joined Bradley at a corner table. Julia pointed out their local tour guide, a friendly looking young man from a Cuenca tour company. “Javier’s bringing us to El Cajas National Park in the morning,” she informed us.

Bradley, Julia, Belinda and Isaiah savor the food.

“Fantastic, Julia! Perhaps you’ll visit Dos Chorreras resort. It’s in sight of two waterfalls for which it’s named. You can fish in a pond for your trout dinner,” I told her. She smiled at the suggestion.

The class commenced with Naomi, Sofy’s teenage daughter, behind the stove. She stirred a pot as guests gathered round. Fluent in English like her mother, she described canelazo, the Andean Highlands alcoholic drink made from sugarcane liquor, fruit juice and agua de canela (cinnamon).

The amber-colored drink hit the spot, the perfect antidote for a long day of touring artisan shops in the countryside. Served both hot, the traditional way, or chilled, Naomi generously offered refills.

I took this opportunity to place copies of “Our New Lives” at the center of vacant tables. As guests returned to their seats, I noticed several looking it over. From the table next to ours, a few women asked me questions. Health care dominated the conversation, followed by rent and the cost of living.

Sofy exited the kitchen to outline the menu. At Belinda’s suggestion, she had on hand pages with recipes and ingredients. Ecuador meals begin with soup. On this occasion, however, it’d be the main course.

So, our meal started with salad. Sofy described the ingredients of mote pillo, the hominy and cheese salad. She accented each plate with an edible violet. Diners ate either standing around the stove or seated at a table.

Once Sofy had demonstrated her preparation of sopa de bolas de verde con corvina (sea trout with green plantains), the staff brought bowls of the hearty soup to the tables. Now, Belinda, Bradley and I would have their undivided attention to share our observations about life in Cuenca.

Belinda spoke about adjustments gringos make in order to get along with the local people. “You have to be flexible” she stressed. “There’s no Walmart here.”

Bradley, a retired school teacher, followed up her remarks with statistics. “I apologize to the local people working here,” he said when they showed stark differences between our host nation and the United States.

Alerted by Julia about their visit to the Cajas, I wanted to impress upon them how grateful I am to visit the national park. “As a carpenter accustomed to working outdoors for many years, I embrace the Cajas. The high altitude and trails challenge me in a way that housebuilding did. It’s where I feel most alive,” I told them.

After enjoying a saucer of spiced pumpkin pudding (dulce de zapallo), we thanked Sofy, Naomi and staff and called it a day. Several blocks west, Mansion Alcazar boutique hotel beckoned the group to its luxurious accommodations and garden courtyard.

Rising from his chair, Isaiah asked for a copy of “Our New Lives.” Luckily, I had one left. He remarked in a bemused manner, “Jeremiah, you’d make a great spokesman for the Chamber of Commerce!” We both laughed and said good night. It would be our only visit with them. They’d returned to Philadelphia on the weekend.

Belinda and I grabbed a taxi. Happy with the evening’s outcome, she confided, “Jeremiah, the people enjoyed reading your story. It was very thoughtful of you to give them copies.”

I smiled in agreement. “And I liked hearing what you shared with the group, Belinda. I’m proud of you, dear!” Everything considered, it was a most successful event. We’d done good!
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Sadly, famous Philadelphia mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar died on February 19.