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Expat Life

The last almuerzo

The last almuerzo

The other day I was sitting in Parque Calderón watching a group of teenage girls taking selfies beside the cathedral while an abuelita marched past submerged under a sack of potatoes. It occurred to me that a surprising number of young American women now look at...

The daily rituals in Cuenca that quietly make you feel like you belong

The daily rituals in Cuenca that quietly make you feel like you belong

Daily rituals in Cuenca rarely begin with dramatic moments. Most expats discover they belong through ordinary routines that quietly become part of someone else's day. Long before they think of themselves as locals, someone else has already started treating them that...

Remembering Riley the wonderdog

Remembering Riley the wonderdog

Riley, an Airedale Terrier, was my trusted companion for sixteen years. I no longer mourn his passing that ended many years ago, but every now and then about this time of year, a whisper of melancholia will brush my cheek, reminding me of a dog who was once my best...

After the fireworks

After the fireworks

Every July 4th I find myself with a slightly uncomfortable question. Exactly what is it that Americans celebrate other than fireworks, barbecues and watermelons? The easy answer is freedom, but the harder answer is freedom for whom and from what? Growing up in...

Fake, Fortune, and Bakelite: Part three

Fake, Fortune, and Bakelite: Part three

Provenance, Psychology, and the Painting Above the Chimney Over the past two weeks we have followed Han van Meegeren from his garden shed in the south of France, through the Rijksmuseum's acquisitions committee, and into the art collection of Nazi Leader Hermann...

The second suitcase every expat brings to Cuenca

The second suitcase every expat brings to Cuenca

Most people who move to Cuenca know about the first suitcase. It holds the practical things. Clothes. Documents. Medications. Chargers. A few favorite items from home. Maybe a sweater for the mountain evenings and a pair of shoes that will survive uneven sidewalks....

Sharing the love, sharing the blood in Cuenca

Sharing the love, sharing the blood in Cuenca

One of the many head games I play while wandering in the kaleidoscope of mayhem surrounding the Rotary Market is imagining (and occasionally wildly exaggerating) the personal lives of couples who capture my attention. High on my list of likely suspects are couples who...

The mystery of the housemaid who never lit the fire

The mystery of the housemaid who never lit the fire

I had spent much of the day supervising the head of housekeeping at Larga Towers who had today arrived with a five-year-old assistant already surprisingly competent in wielding a broom and a mop. The child attacked the rugs and the floor with the focused seriousness...

The biggest lesson many expats learn too late

The biggest lesson many expats learn too late

Most of us arrive in Cuenca carrying a list. We may not write it down, but it is there. A better climate. A lower cost of living. Less stress. More freedom. A fresh start. For some, the list is practical. For others, it is deeply personal. A difficult chapter has...

Gringo tribes studied by expert

Gringo tribes studied by expert

There is a particular kind of  energetic expat who hits the ground running in Cuenca on Monday, buys him or herself an alpaca wool hoodie on Tuesday, and by Wednesday morning is ready to reorganize the bus system, modernize the electrical grid, improve customer...

A world of glorious colors, sounds, and rhythms

A world of glorious colors, sounds, and rhythms

My long-ago girlfriend, Sherry, finally won me over. I remember distant times when I could hardly wait for my girlfriend to get home so I could re-play the latest singer-songwriter album I found that moved me nearly to tears; I was always scouring the bins of our...

Two malls, a mountain, and a bridge

Two malls, a mountain, and a bridge

A few weeks ago I nearly became part of an inauguration ceremony myself, though not through any ambition on my part to mingle with visiting heads of state. I was halfway across the road when a presidential motorcade rounded the corner like a fire brigade racing to a...

Fifty shades of gray

Fifty shades of gray

There are people alive today who genuinely cannot imagine a world without television. To them it is like asking somebody to imagine life without weather. Television simply exists and as far as we know has always existed. It lives on walls in airport lounges, above...

The daily rituals that make Cuenca feel like home

The daily rituals that make Cuenca feel like home

Most of us arrive in Cuenca paying attention to the big things. The lower cost of living. The colonial architecture. The mountain views. The promise of a different pace of life. We compare prices. We admire the churches. We take photographs of blue domes and flower...

Exploring the food of Cuenca on a wet Saturday

Exploring the food of Cuenca on a wet Saturday

Author's note: This is the first of a four-part series about how an expat with no culinary credentials somehow found himself judging one of Cuenca’s most beloved traditional foods. It’s also a story about the generosity of strangers and the adventures that begin when...

What’s that got to do with the price of tomatoes?

What’s that got to do with the price of tomatoes?

My father ran a grocery store in England in the 1950s. At some point he converted it to self-service, which is what we would now call a minimarket. He did not do this because he had read about consumer psychology or operational efficiency. He did it because his shop...

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The Cuenca Dispatch

Week of August 23

Ecuador’s economy grew 2% during the first half of 2026 compared with the same period a year earlier, according to new Banco Central del Ecuador data.

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Cuenca gets a prime view of next week’s deep partial lunar eclipse.

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Ecuador’s economy grows 2% in the first half of 2026.

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