The journey ‘here’

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By Ed O’Connor

In retrospect the journey “HERE” really began in 2010 when a friend from church, Bill, mentioned that he was thinking about traveling to another country and possibly buying a home. We were both very disenchanted with the United States and the oppressive government which we saw as only getting worse. In fact, my wife, Olga, who was born in Siberia, raised in the former Soviet Union, said that she felt she had more freedom in the Soviet Union than in the USA – a very eye opening statement for me to hear. Bill went to Panama and indeed purchased a beautiful property in a most exclusive area of that country. He and his wife invited us for a visit and in March 2011, we winged our way from Pennsylvania’s Harrisburg International Airport to Panama City, Panama.  After a 90-minute commute from Panama City we arrived at Bill’s new home, a large, beautiful complex complete with pool and swim up bar in a gated community in Coronado Beach. We spent 10 days in Panama and after returning to the US really had something to think about. We knew we could not afford anything near that lifestyle plus the weather was hotter than the hinges of hell there, so we searched online for an alternative location in Panama and found Boquete. It was in the mountains hence the climate was bearable and it was also way much more affordable. We bought books about Panama, books about retiring abroad, and studied what we could find on the Internet. We both had jobs so there was no real urgency to do anything or make any plans, but it was fun to dream. Then came April Fool’s Day.

On April 1, 2011, the supervisor where I worked said that he needed to see me. I was told that the company no longer required my services. I thought it was an April Fool’s joke – it definitely was not. At age 64 I was unemployed. To put the proverbial icing on the cake, the Tuesday after Labor Day, September 6, 2011, five months after losing my job, we lost our home and possessions in the flood waters of Tropical Storm Lee. After applying for 101 jobs and receiving but one interview I figured that there had to be something better somewhere. So back to the books and the Internet.  We noticed that the cost of living was rising in Panama and since we would have only one income, my social security, Panama was no longer an option. Now what do we do?   After months and months of more research we decided on ‘HERE’

We departed from Harrisburg International Airport on December 11, 2012 with nothing but faith and seven pieces of luggage. 2989 miles later we were ‘HERE’.  Ironically we arrived on 12/12/12/ at 12 noon. So where in the world is ‘HERE’?

‘HERE’ is Cuenca, Ecuador, South America. Cuenca has been consistently named as one of the top locations in the world in which to retire and after living here for almost 13 years, I must whole-heartedly agree.

We made a move that many people said was foolish, insane and other adjectives I cannot use. Probably the biggest response and question we have heard is, “Why would you leave the Number One country in the world and move to a third world country, Ecuador?” I have been asked that by friends, relatives, tourists, print and video journalists. What an easy question to answer!   After working for nearly 50 years including four years in the military I was totally disillusioned with the US regimes at every level telling me how to live every aspect of my government regulated life and being taxed into poverty.

Is the USA Number One – you bet it is……….it ranks number one in the world in:

1. Largest prison population on the planet
2. Highest percentage of obese people of any country (No longer – Mexico now has the honor)
3. Highest divorce rate in the world by a large margin
4. Most hours of television watched each week
5. Highest use of illegal drugs on the planet
6. More car thefts by far than any place in the world
7. More reported rapes than any place else in the world
8. More reported murders than any other country
9. More reported crimes than any other country
10. More police officers than any place else in the world
11. More money spent on health care as a percentage of gross domestic product
12. More people on pharmaceutical drugs than any other country
13. More women on more anti-depressants than any other country in the world
14. Americans have more student loan debt than any other country
15. 89 per cent of all pornography is created in the USA
16. The USA has the highest trade deficit in the world
17. The USA has the most complicated tax system in the world
18. The USA has the most lawyers in the world
19. The USA has far more military bases than any other country
20. The USA has the largest debt that the world has ever seen

Yes, the USA is NUMBER ONE!!!……………..and it is no longer for me!!!  I did not leave the country – the country left me! Since coming here from the US, I now know how it must have felt to be on a lifeboat as the Titanic sunk.

This city, Cuenca, is really an interesting and beautiful place. It is an old city that was founded in 1557. Four rivers transverse the city. There are many small neighborhood parks as well as manicured linear parks that border the rivers with bicycle/walking paths and some parks have the heavy-duty outdoor version of indoor exercise equipment that one would find in health clubs. One can bike/walk from one side of the city to the other side on the river paths.

Cuenca lies one degree from the equator hence one would assume that it would be very hot. Not so. The city is at an altitude of 8300 feet above sea level so the weather is wonderful. I equate the climate to late summer, early fall in Pennsylvania. Keep in mind that being in the southern hemisphere the seasons are reversed. Summer temperatures (Fahrenheit) are in the 70’s during the day and 60‘s at night.  In winter the temps run about ten degrees less. We have no heating or air conditioning in our apartment.

Because of the altitude the air is thinner and has less oxygen which affects about 25 per cent of tourists and new residents in a negative way. The main symptoms are light headedness and tiring quickly, but one soon becomes acclimated to the altitude. Fortunately, I never experienced the problem, but my wife, Olga, did for about the first 10 days. The altitude’s big plus is insects – there are very few.  In Pennsylvania we had to bathe in insect repellent when walking by the river unless we wanted to be a black fly and mosquito buffet. We walk by the rivers here and……..no bugs.

Having grown up in small town America I never liked cities and always felt uneasy in them. In fact, on a visit to New York City I experienced my only panic attack and had to go to Central Park so I could breathe. So when deciding to live in a city of 550,000 I had serious trepidation. My fears were vanquished our first day here. The city has a small town feel and I feel totally comfortable walking the streets day or night.

Cuenca is the cultural capital of Ecuador and there is much to do and see. There is a plethora of museums, art galleries and historical sites to explore. The largest museum, theatre and Inca ruins are a 20-minute walk from our apartment. There is the Cuenca Symphony Orchestra, the university symphony orchestra and the youth orchestra whose performances are free. There are four universities. There are 52 cathedrals in the city, the oldest one was built in 1567. Most are magnificent architectural masterpieces. There is a state-of-the-art planetarium and it was designed to look like the planet Saturn complete with rings. Holidays and parades abound. One of the longest parades in the world is the Christmas Parade, (Paseo del Nino Parade), on December 24. It starts at 9:00am and continues until 5:00pm. Thousands participate and thousands more view the parade.

The Cuencanos are very happy, friendly and laid back. Their attitude seems to be that they work to live, not live to work. The city crime rate is very low. Thousands of Ecuadorians that left Ecuador to work in the United States for years are now returning to Ecuador — mainly to Cuenca.

There is much construction and renovation throughout the city. A new light rail system runs through Cuenca. Buses are readily available as well as taxis. One does not need private transportation.

Our new city of residence is not perfect. Yes, there are problems we have encountered. There are things we do not like or find annoying. The biggest difficulty is definitely the language. The national language is Spanish……period.  When phoning it is not, “press one for English, two for Spanish, three for Polish, four for Swahili, five for Vietnamese, six for Icelandic, et cetera, et cetera. Spanish will be Olga’s fourth language!  I am not a very good student. When we first arrived, I knew two Spanish words “cerveza and “bano” – “beer” and “bathroom”. My vocabulary has expanded a bit since then.

Getting our permanent visas was a difficult process. It took us six months. The immigration office kept changing the rules and requirements. What was correct yesterday being not correct today. It was an extremely frustrating experience that required much patience. Apparently bureaucrats are the same everywhere – a pain just south of my back. I understand the visa process is easier now..

Car alarms are the bane of tranquility. Most cars have them – and the alarms all sound the same. There could be a 2025 Ferrari or a 1985 Yugo and one would not know from which the sound was emanating. How someone can sit in his car while listening to an ear piercing alarm as if it was elevator music beats me……….Car horns! When the traffic light turns green the drivers lay on their horns. How a driver ten cars back blowing his car horn is going to affect the driver at the light is a mystery to me……….Car turn signals are another story – they are rarely used. The wiring on cars here should be reversed. When the horn is used it should activate the turn signals and vice versa……….Traffic lights and stop signs seem to be a suggestion – pedestrians beware!……….There are many street dogs and one must be alert when walking not to step in doggie exhaust……….Graffiti! Now I understand why few Ecuadoreans have checking accounts – it is difficult to sign a check with a spray can……….Despite these annoyances I would still rather live here than the USA.

There are some interesting differences that I have noticed between Cuenca and Pennsylvania. I know these things will not apply to all states, but since I lived in PA I have to use it as a comparison: All the telephone poles here are made of concrete……….Lawns at people’s homes and grass in the parks are cut with spin trimmers. I have seen only one lawn mower and no ride mowers……….If I want beer, wine or liquor, I go to a store and buy it – there are no union and state controlled alcohol monopolies……….There are no post offices in this city of over a half million people……….When a product or service of any kind is purchased the price marked or quoted includes tax……….Prices in many restaurants include tax and tip……….I can get my shoes repaired for a fraction of new price……….All financial institutions have armed guards carrying mostly sawed off shotguns – I have heard of no bank robberies……….Many pharmaceuticals for which I needed a prescription can be purchased here over-the-counter (the exception being medicines containing narcotics and heavy pain medication). Before I left the USA I went to Wal-Mart to have a prescription filled, cost was $168.00. I could not afford that much. I bought the exact same brand and size here without a prescription for $6.87……….Sue is still a name here, not a verb……….Children are actually taught here how to cross a street without a crossing guard……….Believe it or not, there are no police officers or metal detectors in the schools……….Students are well dressed for school in very attractive uniforms and when not in school the males have their pants worn at waist level and their caps have the bills facing front, (imagine that!)……….Even though the altitude is 8300 feet above sea level and the oxygen thin, I have seen nobody carrying or pulling oxygen devices to breathe – but then I have seen very few smokers……….I can tell the difference between the males and females – the females are the attractive ones with the long hair and I have not seen women wearing flip flops and baggy pants that look like pajama bottoms or that they are in clown training with Ringling Brothers Circus……….Cars can have tinted windows, lights in the wheel wells and other aftermarket equipment that would be illegal in Pennsylvania……….One can ride in the bed of a pickup truck without being stopped by police and ticketed……….I hear less police and fire sirens in this city of 550,000 than I did in a town of 8900……….The police are all in good shape here as they walk, no riding in air conditioned $40K patrol cars, plus there are no 7-11‘s or Dunkin’ Donut shops……….Children and adults utilize the parks and are outdoors playing soccer, volleyball and basketball……….Voting here is mandatory and one is fined if one does not vote……….Political campaigning is strictly limited to 45 days before an election and must cease 48 hours before the polls open……….Voting is conducted on the weekend……….Doctors here still make house calls……….I have my doctor’s personal cell phone number and can call him any time I need him, day or night……….Dollar coins are used here almost exclusively instead of dollar bills……….I do not have to hear the over used terms and words, “Like you know”, “Awesome” and “Dude” – what a blessing……….And, Thank God, nobody here cares about Justin Bieber, Miley Cyrus, or the Kardashians!!!!!

How many times have I heard, “But, Ed, you moved to a “third world country”. Aren’t living conditions primitive? Well, not exactly. We live in a modern apartment that has two bedrooms, two bathrooms and two elevator; an open plan dining room, living room, kitchen, laundry and storage. There are ceramic tiled floors throughout, except for the bedrooms which have hardwood floors. The kitchen has a breakfast bar and all the kitchen counter tops are granite. All the bedrooms have built in closets, cupboards and drawers. Our apartment is on the second floor of a five floor building and has an intercom system with which we can unlock the security doors by pressing buttons in our apartment. So, no, we are not “roughing it” ……….Oh, our apartment is completely furnished and the monthly rent includes electric, water, sewer, gas, internet, building fees, 24 hour security, trash removal, back-up generator & storage unit.

“But, Ed, is the water safe to drink?” Studies show that the water in Cuenca has been rated as the best water in South America. We drink the water straight from the tap.

What a joy it is not to own a vehicle! No car payments, no gasoline, oil, tires, maintenance and no insurance. Since I am over 65, I can take a bus any place in the city for $.17. For those under 65 the cost is $.35. The taxi fare runs between $1.50 and $3.00. If one owns a car here, gasoline is $2.62 per gallon and diesel fuel is $1.79 per gallon.

A lunch at one of the local restaurants consisting of a bowl of soup, large platter, juice and dessert costs $3.00. A haircut/beard trim – $3.00. The only tax I pay is on purchases – 12 per cent, but has “temporarily” increased to 15%. Since I am over 65, I get the tax back I have paid by submitting forms with the SRI, (think IRS). I am living tax free. If one uses the credit unions, (cooptivas), the rate of interest on a certificate of deposit is around 9%. In addition, we have stopped cleaning our clothes by beating them on rocks at the river ever since we started using the electronic, stainless steel automatic washer.

Yes, the dollar is the currency used so there is no worrying about exchange rates

“But, Ed, I suppose when you are sick you go to a medicine man?”  No, I usually go to the GP or specialists. Many doctors and dentists here trained in the USA or Europe. Since I have been in Cuenca, I have lost 20 pounds and three inches from my waist. My blood pressure and blood sugar are the best they have ever been. I attribute those better numbers to a healthier life style, and the fruits and vegetables are fresh and no genetically modified foods, (GMO’s).

There is government health insurance but it is NOT mandatory. We are allowed to think for ourselves, a novel concept! One can purchase government insurance, private insurance or no insurance. The government insurance premium is under $100 for the two of us. The government insurance covers medical, prescriptions and hospitalization with no deductibles or co pays.

That’s my story and I’m stickin’ to it. Now you know where ‘HERE’ is located, how we got ‘HERE’ and ‘HERE’ we intend to stay.

-Ed O’Connor
Eddy The Expat