The cheese sauce that conquered Cuenca — or at least Charlie Larga

They say you can’t take it with you. But some things come along anyway. Like memories. Like mid-century plumbing. And, in my case, like cheese sauce.

It started innocently enough: a lump of butter, a spoon of flour, a jug of milk, and a block of Cheddar that was, in all fairness, pushing the definition of “Cheddar.” Imported, shrink-wrapped, and somehow both rubbery and dry, it had made the long trek up the Andes with all the dignity of a deflated bicycle tire. Still, it was all I had.

And that was the birth of la salsa Charlie, my slightly rogue version of the classic English béchamel-with-benefits. It’s the sauce you make when you need comfort and a crust, and you’re too far from the Yorkshire Dales for proper cheese and too stubborn to settle for nacho goop.

I start with the usual roux, stir in hot milk till smooth, then add whatever cheese-like substances I can muster: a little grated Parmesan from the supermarket, a spoonful of crumbled blue cheese if I’m feeling dangerous, and just occasionally a teaspoon of feta for mystery. Add salt, pepper, and English mustard (if available; if not, you improvise with a suspiciously yellow local substitute that might also remove limescale). The result is alchemy.

This sauce goes with everything. Pour it over parboiled cauliflower, shove it in the oven, and you’ve got culinary history in a baking dish. Mix it with pasta and bake for macaroni cheese that will make mac-in-a-box users rethink their lives. Use it as a hot dip with potato chip or do what I sometimes do: ladle it on toast, add a few slices of tomato, and grill it until bubbling. It’s not quite pizza. It’s better. (Especially if you add anchovies.)

You can even top a lasagna with it — none of your ricotta or namby-pamby white sauce, just a thick, molten layer of defiance. And if you want that perfect golden-brown crust without firing up the oven, a quick stint in the air fryer does wonders. It crisps up the top like a blowtorch in a pub kitchen, without heating the whole house.

Of course, in Cuenca, there’s always the cheese problem. The local queso fresco is delightful on bread and even better grilled, but it melts like a snowman in a sauna: all water, no soul. A decent Cheddar is a rare beast. When you do find one, it’s imported, vacuum-sealed, and priced like contraband. Which is why my sauce is, by necessity, an act of adaptation.

But that’s the thing about living here. You start out trying to recreate home, and you end up creating something better. Something hybrid. Something with a soul of Cheddar but the improvisational spirit of the Andes.

And when I serve it — on cauliflower, toast, macaroni, or just a spoon — it vanishes fast. Occasionally, I catch myself licking out the pan. Not because I’m hungry. But because it’s too good to waste. And because, frankly, I’m the cook, and I make the rules.

Just don’t ask me to share the last spoonful. That’s where I draw the line.

Charlie’s Improvised Cheese Sauce
(Also answers to “Cauliflower Armor” or “Macaroni Gold”)

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1½ cups milk (more if needed)
• ½ to 1 cup grated cheese (whatever passes for Cheddar; mix-ins welcome)
• 1/2 teaspoon English or Dijon mustard (optional, but worth it)
• Pinch of salt and pepper
• Optional: a teaspoon of crumbled blue cheese, feta, or grated Parmesan for depth

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour to form a smooth paste (the roux). Cook it gently for a minute or two—don’t rush it; it builds flavor.
2. Gradually whisk in the milk, a little at a time, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. It’ll thicken up as it simmers.
3. Add your cheese (or cheeses) and stir until melted and smooth. Then stir in mustard (a tiny bit), salt, pepper, and any other flavour boosters you fancy.
4. Use immediately over cooked pasta, vegetables, toast, or baked potatoes. Or layer into lasagna or use as a hot dip.
5. To bake with a crust: Pour into an oven-safe dish, sprinkle extra cheese or breadcrumbs on top, and bake or air-fry until golden and bubbling. In an air fryer, 8–10 minutes at 200°C (about 390°F) usually does the trick.