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Expat Life

The Cuenca neighborhood that doesn’t exist

The Cuenca neighborhood that doesn’t exist

The first time I saw “Gringolandia” listed as a neighborhood in Cuenca, I assumed I had missed a municipal announcement. Perhaps the city council had quietly created a new parish, drawn a few boundaries along the river, and installed a sign somewhere official-looking....

The quiet moment when living abroad stops being the story

The quiet moment when living abroad stops being the story

For a while, living abroad explains everything. It explains why daily routines feel unfamiliar. It explains why small successes feel meaningful. It explains why so much attention goes into ordinary things like grocery shopping, transportation, language, and finding...

The strange expat education of Nellie

The strange expat education of Nellie

During the British heatwave summer of 1959 the songs from the film South Pacific were everywhere. They drifted out of radios, and open windows, and if you were a child wandering about in short pants with nothing much to do except ride your bike and play cricket with a...

The twilight side of the ski slope

The twilight side of the ski slope

People of the tercera edad may remember the 1970s hit duet “Morning Side of the Mountain,” recorded by Donny Osmond and Marie Osmond. The song actually dated from the early 1950s and was originally a hit for an African-American singer, but the Osmonds revived it with...

When expats start looking at other places

When expats start looking at other places

For many expats, there comes a quiet moment when curiosity begins to return. Not dissatisfaction. Not a plan to leave. Just a subtle shift where the mind starts wandering toward other cities, other landscapes, or other possibilities. At first the feeling can be...

How I laughed all the way to the bathroom

How I laughed all the way to the bathroom

It has been brought to Charlie’s attention, via the informal yet remarkably efficient communications network known locally as “overheard at a café,” that there are several gringos living comfortable, well-fed, and apparently functional lives in Cuenca who, after...

Forty-five years later, still paying for convenience

Forty-five years later, still paying for convenience

There was a time when the future of banking arrived before the machines required to use it, and I discovered this minor chronological error shortly after I arrived in Bermuda on July 3rd 1980 to work for the health ministry, where I was paid by electronic transfer...

When living in Cuenca stops being an adjustment and becomes a choice

When living in Cuenca stops being an adjustment and becomes a choice

For many expats, life in Cuenca begins with discovery. The first months are filled with exploration. New cafés appear every week. Walking routes change daily. Markets, restaurants, and neighborhoods slowly reveal themselves. Each day offers something unfamiliar, and...

Coping with the day when nothing is wrong

Coping with the day when nothing is wrong

Ah ! que la vie est quotidienne. (Ah, daily life seems so routine!)         — Jules Laforgue This morning, at the time of writing, I am lying in bed conducting negotiations of the most delicate and least consequential kind. Not with a government, nor with a bank...

Paperbacks are checking out

Paperbacks are checking out

The other day, while waiting in line at Supermaxi, I found myself nose to nose with a wire rack of paperbacks whose optimism exceeded their typography. Cumbres Borrascosas by Emily Bronte leaned against a Bill Bryson travelogue translated into Spanish, something...

A retirement journey from sheep town to basin city

A retirement journey from sheep town to basin city

I have lived long enough to watch two different towns, one in North Yorkshire, England, and one in the Ecuadorian Andes, win the same prize for the same crime. They both insist on being pleasant places to live, despite the fact that their street plans were drawn up by...

Talking to Juan Estrella, Cuenca’s world-class magician

Talking to Juan Estrella, Cuenca’s world-class magician

By Frances A. Hogg Did you know that a world-class magician lives among us? Juan Estrella, born in Cuenca, is an internationally known magician and teacher of magic. He is a member of the Magic Circle in London, England, the prestigious Mundial de Mágico, and Cali...

A tourist group gets a taste of Ecuador

A tourist group gets a taste of Ecuador

In February 2020, our Philadelphia friend, Julia, and her partner led a group of seventeen on a ten-day tour of Ecuador. My wife Belinda arranged for their Cuenca visit to include an Ecuadorian cooking class at Sofy’s Global Cuisine. Julia’s husband, renowned mosaic...

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The Cuenca Dispatch

Week of August 23

Ecuador’s economy grew 2% during the first half of 2026 compared with the same period a year earlier, according to new Banco Central del Ecuador data.

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Cuenca gets a prime view of next week’s deep partial lunar eclipse.

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Ecuador’s economy grows 2% in the first half of 2026.

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